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The 'Moored' grape was named and released by the Research Division of Agriculture and Life Sciences of Virginia Polytechnic Institute. This is the second grape variety resulting from the grape breeding program initiated by Professor Robert C. Moore, more than sixty years ago. It was named Moored in recognition of the many years of service given by Professor Moore to the program in fruit breeding at V.P.I. Excellent for juice and fresh eating. Concord-like but earlier and red. Space 10 - 12' on 6' wire trellis. Zone 5 - 8.

The parents are 'Fredonia' and 'Athens'. The cross was made in 1949. The original vine bore fruit in 1953 and was held for further observation because of lack of infection of the fruit clusters by the black rot fungus in a year of more than average prevalence of this disease. The large, well filled clusters of large red berries were also noted. It was selected for propagation and further testing in 1956. The selection number V.P.I. 26 was assigned to it at that time. Prior to his retirement from active service on June 30, 1964, Professor Moore recommended that V.P.I. 26 be considered for eventual naming and introduction.

Plant Characteristics
Disease Resistance	Good
Drought Tolerance	Good
Heat Tolerance	Excellent
Humidity Tolerance	Good
Sun Tolerance	Excellent
Wet Soil Tolerance	Poor
Shade Tolerance	Fair
No Spray	Fair
Salt Tolerance	Fair
Fun for Kids	Excellent
Deer Resistance	Poor
Thorns	No
Plant Type	Vine
Soil Type	Adaptable
Edible Type	Fruit
Self Fertile	Yes
this information is accurate to the best of our knowledge, comments/opinions are always welcome

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The small home owner may not have room for grapes in his garden or even have a fence to grow them on. Planning to use them as part of the overall landscape picture is the answer. Grapes are so beautiful, so highly decorative, so exceedingly graceful in or out of fruit that they look well anywhere.

For humid areas such as ours air circulation is important to minimize black rot. Black rot is a fungus that is naturally occurring in our environment. It looks like a brown freckle on a leaf. It spreads by rainfall hitting the leaf and the spores on the brown area are released by the splashing rain and land on another place on the leaf or developing grapes. An infected fruit will finally shrivel up like a hard raisin becoming unusable. Growing a grape on a high wire (6') will keep the plant off the ground and let air circulate under and around the plant. Grapes naturally grow up trees, where the air is less likely to have mildew etc. So keep them off the ground. The Munson system is often used in home plantings. It is particularly suitable for humid climates, because the fruit is produced high above the ground where it is less subject to injury by diseases.

Pruning
Grapevines require drastic annual pruning, undertaken in late winter or early spring. The many pruning systems can not be described here, but essentially they boil down to two: cane pruning and
spur pruning. The point to remember is that grapes are borne exclusively on "one-year wood," the woody canes which were the green shoots of the previous season. The wood of some varieties yields most heavily from the 3 or 4 buds closest to the trunk; so these are pruned by cutting back several canes to "spurs" of 3 or 4 buds and trimming off everything else. The spurs yield sufficient crop. The canes of other varieties bear best from the 4th to the 10th buds, counting out
from the trunk; so these are pruned by cutting back several canes to leave 8 to 10 buds each according to the vigor of the vine and counting from the trunk, then trimming off everything else and tying these & "bearing canes"; to the trellis. In cane pruning, 2 short spurs are also left well placed near the head of the vine, not for crop but to provide well placed & "one year wood" for the following year.How many buds to leave on mature varieties. Amount left can vary with vigor of vine.<a this. like look may Concord A pruned. this Blanc Villard>

Canopy Management
Tipping vine growth in June for bunch grapes is good culture. Remember to retain 15 or more leaves per shoot in doing any hedging. At fruit set or shortly hereafter, selectively removing 1 or 2 leaves in the fruit zone is an excellent means of assisting with disease control, especially for botrytis bunch rot and powery mildew. Clusters and berries that freely develop without contct with other objects tend to be freer of fruit rots and exhibit more uniform berry ripening than do clusters that are contacting trellis or grapevine parts.

Planting
Plant in good soil, average in nutrients. Keep out weeds and grass. Grapes have extended surface roots and suffer from competition with grass and weeds. Keep well watered. After growth begins
pinch back growth except the growth you've chosen to be the future trunk. Setting a vertical stake for the grape to grow up the first year will help it reach the horizontal wire of the trellis. MUSCADINES: (Vitis rotundifolis) are native to southeastern United States. They do well under high temperature and humidity found in that area. The Muscadine sometimes is called the Scuppernong, and many know it by that name. It is more resistant than most to drought conditions and also to disease. Under favorable conditions the vines are very long-lived, but they are not hardy in the northern United States because of the low temperature conditions which prevail in that area. 0* is at it's lowest temperature.


Pruning Muscadines
The Muscadine has a boundless enthusiasm for growth, and you must restrain it or you will soon have jungle of vines. Therefore just as soon as you can, establish a main trunk for the vine. Tie this to the post and cut it off when it reaches the top. The trunk then may be allowed to develop about eight arms near the top. These should radiate outward like the spokes of a wagon wheel. To support them properly, wires should be stretched between the posts, thus forming a canopy. The main arms of the Muscadines do not produce fruiting shoots. One-year-old canes growing from these arms are pruned back to provide fruiting shoots. To prune properly, cut back the pevious season's side growth, allowing about six buds to remain on the canes. Each year for best results, cut out one of the main arms. Then select a shoot near the top of the trunk to replace it. If this is done faithfully you will renew all of the arms every eight years. If you don't do this, the old arms in time will become so heavily spurred that their fruiting vigor will be reduced.

We've chosen the most disease resistant varieties we know of for less care landscaping. If however you have a problem and are not getting good results, bag the grape. A waxed white paper sac, stapled over the stem with the growing cluster inside, keeps insects and disease out.
Wax Paper Bags It is easier to pick 25 of the best bunches on a mature vine and bag them than it is spraying a fungicide before it rains. The Japanese rely on bagging for most of their fruit. Taking off all other bunches and choosing only 25 will also enhance the size and flavor of those 25 bunches. Apply the bags when the grapes are pea size. It can even be done at fruit set. The villard Blanc grape pictured in our catalog was taken after we removed the bag from the bunch.